The plan was always to do more casts and use them as terrain.
Finally got round to starting these.
Ruins 1
As you can see this is very early in the build. I need to build the bases up next with some foamboard (as I did on the Blight Drone base). The Finnboard is just cut roughly to shape at the moment.
Rubble will cover the gap between the small 'islands'.
On the last piece I did a second cast of the wall with the arch then added this to the first piece. Was a bit tricky but overall very happy with it.
Scatter Terrain 18
I've cast more pallets and stowage but for this update just a quick post as I decided to do a new crate. Basically I wanted a bigger cast, so I took two cast crates and with a bit of fiddling ended up with one big cast which was then turned into a mould...
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| Original master on the left, new larger crate master on the right. |
One of the best things with these stores moulds is that it allows me to minimise any waste resin. Any excess mixed up can simply be poured in, then bits of scrap resin from pour vents, sprues etc can be chucked in as well...
And half hour later we have the first cast:
How hot does the resin get? Do you use a specific heat plate/pouring vessel or tin can etc? Looks great, can't wait to see what you do with all the crates!
ReplyDeleteThe resin doesn't reach temperature where it becomes tricky to handle. Plastic beakers are fine for mixing and pouring the resin (I use some lab beakers I bought off ebay). I have had excess resin go off in the beakers and they haven't sustained any damage etc from the heat.
DeleteLove seeing your cast stuff. Seems so simple, but there is more complexity going on there than first seems I'd bet.
ReplyDeleteThose 3rd ed ruins are classic - I have a set bombing around somewhere.
With the mold, it seems like a massive chunk of rubber has been used. Have you found you need thick walls too help the cast?
I always try to have around 10mm of rubber around the master. I could get away with thinner but the cost difference is insignificant so might as well stick with 10mm. You don't want walls too thin or it will not keep the shape you want to cast, you don't want the cast pieces to be distorted versions of the master due to the walls sagging or flexing, better go for a bit more rubber than risk that.
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